商业/经济

阿塞拜疆——不灭之火之地

在阿塞拜疆准备主办 COP29 之际,JPT 回顾了这个国家如何凭借丰富的石油和天然气资源以及古丝绸之路沿线的独特地理位置繁荣了数千年,如今,这条路线上有管道穿过,将天然气和石油从里海深处输送到欧洲。

1900 年至 1917 年,巴库巴拉哈尼油田生产井旁边的一个坑里,储水池里倒映着原油和废弃物。
1900 年至 1917 年,巴库巴拉哈尼油田生产井旁边的一个坑里,储水池里倒映着原油和废弃物。
来源:瑞典国家科学技术博物馆。

几千年来,琐罗亚斯德教的拜火教徒们前往寺庙朝圣祈祷,这些寺庙建在今天阿塞拜疆首都巴库附近的阿布歇隆半岛上,由于从地下深处渗出的甲烷导致大火从地面爆发出来。

13 世纪,威尼斯商人马可波罗在穿越高加索山脉的丝绸之路时,观察到了这种神秘的火焰和油坑,它们冒着泡,甚至像喷泉一样喷涌而出。

据说,在 1298 年撰写的游记《马可波罗游记》中,他曾这样描述:“格鲁吉亚边境有一处泉眼,泉眼喷涌出大量石油,足以让一百艘船同时装载石油。这种油不能食用,但可以用于烧伤,并可用作治疗瘙痒或疥疮的人和骆驼的药膏。”

他指的是阿塞拜疆汗国,马可波罗时代是波斯帝国的一部分,但 1806 年被并入俄罗斯帝国,当时俄罗斯沙皇对早期石油开采很感兴趣,开采石油并用骆驼背运往国外。阿塞拜疆的石蜡含量很高,可用于生产煤油灯油和润滑剂(包括炮油)。

11 月,COP29 代表将齐聚巴库 21 世纪火焰塔的阴影下,这座火焰塔象征着由渗出的碳氢化合物滋养的永恒之火,几个世纪以来,这些碳氢化合物决定了阿塞拜疆的命运。
11 月,COP29 代表将齐聚巴库 21 世纪火焰塔的阴影下,这座火焰塔象征着由渗出的碳氢化合物滋养的永恒之火,几个世纪以来,这些碳氢化合物决定了阿塞拜疆的命运。
来源:Vadim Nefedov/Dreamstime。

世界上第一口机械钻井

随着 19 世纪中叶工业革命从西方席卷东方,现代石油和天然气行业即将凝聚的许多创新和商业系统都在古老的“火之沙漠”进行了检验。

沙皇尼古拉一世 (1825-1855) 于 1846 年出资,使用电缆工具冲击钻井法钻出了世界上第一口机械钻井油井。结果,这口油井深达 21 米(69 英尺)。

据布拉诺贝尔历史档案记载,这件事发生在埃德温·德雷克于 1859 年用蒸汽机为机械钻机提供动力,将宾夕法尼亚州泰特斯维尔标注在地图上的十年之前

到了 1871 年,尼古拉的儿子、改革家亚历山大二世登上了俄罗斯王位,在 Bibi-Heybat 和 Balakhani 油田,钻孔已经取代了水桶。

历史资料证明,19 世纪 70 年代,阿尔弗雷德·诺贝尔的兄弟路德维格和罗伯特从瑞典来到阿塞拜疆,为阿塞拜疆的工业创新、建筑和物流带来了重大变化。到 1900 年,阿塞拜疆的石油产量占世界产量的 50%。

亚历山大二世于 1869 年废除了国家对石油生产的垄断,向外国工业家及其资本敞开了大门。

罗伯特·诺贝尔 (Robert Nobel) 同意了,并于 1878 年与俄罗斯伊热夫斯克市一家武器工厂的合伙人共同创办了 Branobel 股份公司。他投入了 300 万卢布(相当于今天的 30,000 美元)的股本,注册了 Tovarishestvo Neftyanogo Proizvodstva Bratyev Nobel(英文名称为 Tovarishestvo Neftyanogo Proizvodstva Bratyev Nobel,即诺贝尔兄弟石蜡生产公司,又名 Branobel)。

根据阿塞拜疆能源部 2020 年编写的一份历史文件,巴库油田向资本主义生产部门的转变始于 1872 年,当时拍卖了巴拉哈尼油田的 15 个区块和比比黑巴特油田的 2 个区块。

这导致 1876 年至 1882 年间石油产量增长了 340%,从 24,000 吨增至 816,000 吨。根据 Branobel 档案保管员的说法,到 1894 年,阿塞拜疆的石油产量与美国持平(每年 555 万吨),尽管巴库的油田产量比美国低 20 倍。

Branobel 公司档案中记载的其他首创成果包括:

  • 世界上第一艘油轮是钢壳船“琐罗亚斯德”号,于1877年服役,通过波罗的海和俄罗斯河流系统将巴库的石油运往欧洲和亚洲市场。
  • 首次使用油罐车进行铁路运输,将石油运送至俄罗斯帝国各地。
  • 首次尝试在海上开采里海石油。
  • 第一艘柴油动力船。俄罗斯的汪达尔河驳船和萨尔马特河驳船将阿塞拜疆的石油和石油产品运送到帝国的国内市场。
俄国革命前,油田工人在巴库钻井和完井。
俄国革命前,油田工人在巴库钻井和完井。
来源:Romanovempire.org。

狄塞尔先生如何利用巴库重油将他的发动机商业化

据说,19 世纪 90 年代末,诺贝尔公司驻俄罗斯的一名瑞典员工在德国工程师年会上看到了鲁道夫·狄塞尔发明的早期版本。在家乡圣彼得堡,这位名叫安东·卡尔松的员工建议伊曼纽尔·诺贝尔获得这项专利。诺贝尔的父亲路德维格·诺贝尔于 1888 年去世后,诺贝尔经营着布拉诺贝尔公司。

德国专家对狄塞尔的专利提出质疑,质疑发动机能否在设想的高压下运行。在诺贝尔和狄塞尔谈判时,有人建议试验重油——这可能是诺贝尔在意识到这对他的圣彼得堡工厂和巴库生产的重油的影响后发明的。

引用布拉诺贝尔档案中的一段话:“1898 年 2 月 16 日,伊曼纽尔·诺贝尔与狄塞尔签订了合同,支付了 80 万马克。鲁道夫·狄塞尔在写给妻子的信中说:“现在这位冷静的瑞典人比我还热衷于我的发动机。”在这 80 万马克中,60 万马克以现金支付,20 万马克则用于购买新成立的纽伦堡俄罗斯柴油机公司的股份。

第一台发动机是一台 20 马力的立式发动机,采用 A 形支架,通过十字头连接连杆和曲轴。该机器在圣彼得堡技术学院进行了正式测试。

在这个重工业化时期,诺贝尔兄弟并非孤军奋战。罗斯柴尔德家族在巴黎的银行于 1883 年注册成立了里海黑海公司,主要从事阿塞拜疆石油和石油产品的出口。1883 年,该家族的银行机构贷款修建了外高加索铁路,该铁路连接了巴库和格鲁吉亚黑海港口巴统。他们还资助了油罐车的建设。

因此,罗斯柴尔德家族在 19 世纪 80 年代末成为俄罗斯最大的煤油出口商,巴库阿塞拜疆技术大学教授米尔尤西夫米尔巴巴耶夫在 2018 年春季的《阿塞拜疆愿景》杂志中写道。

据罗斯柴尔德家族档案记载,他们在巴库的石油特许权非常大,以至于它很快成为约翰·D·洛克菲勒公司标准石油的主要竞争对手,直到 1912 年他们出售了他们的石油权益。

新兴的荷兰皇家壳牌公司和壳牌运输贸易公司与罗斯柴尔德家族和诺贝尔家族合作,进一步扩大俄罗斯原油和煤油从阿布歇隆半岛的出口,特别是向亚洲的出口,并进一步削弱标准石油公司的垄断地位。

1918-1920 年,石油工人大道沿线的街景。来源:公共领域/Ariel Varges。
1918 年至 1920 年期间,石油工人大道 (Neftchilar Avenue) 的街景。
来源:公共领域/Ariel Varges。

世界大战、内战、革命和列宁的新经济政策

阿塞拜疆石油工业在 19 世纪经历了增长,但在 20 世纪初却因战争和意识形态而遭到破坏。在第一次世界大战、俄国革命和帝国内战的干扰下,到 1920 年,阿塞拜疆对世界石油​​产量的贡献已降至 15%,而在同一时期,美国的石油产量位居全球首位。

新生的苏联需要帮助,因此当列宁推出新经济政策(NEP)时,利润的美德被写入马克思主义的白话文中,并向外国公司提供石油特许权,以吸引投资、外国工人和最新技术到巴库。

苏联于 1923 年与美国工程公司国际巴恩斯达尔公司 (International Barnsdall Corp.) 达成了一项交易,该公司将“数十名美国工程师和技术人员”带到了巴库,同时“引进了钻探更大更深的井所必需的旋转钻机等新技术”,乔纳森·H·西科特(Jonathan H. Sicotte) 在其论文中写道。

对新经济政策时代的学术研究进行回顾后得出结论,巴恩斯达尔交易与其说是一种让步,倒不如说是苏联贸易惯例的预兆,即用石油换取西方的技术和培训,同时保留对资产的控制权。荷兰皇家壳牌公司在巴库的资产已被国有化,该公司与辛克莱石油公司谈判,争取到真正的石油特许权和近乎垄断的生产控制权。苏联人说“不”。

最终,斯大林采取“单打独斗”的方式,孤立地建立苏联的石油和天然气工业。直到 1991 年底苏联解体,情况才有所好转。

阿塞拜疆在莫斯科政变失败后于 1991 年 8 月宣布独立,四个月前。此后,阿塞拜疆经历了政治混乱、社会动荡和与亚美尼亚的战争,直到 1993 年,曾任克格勃和苏联政治局委员的盖达尔·阿利耶夫通过阿塞拜疆自己的军事政变夺取政权。

几个世纪以来,塞拜疆先后服务于三个帝国(即波斯、俄罗斯和苏联)的利益,现在终于可以自由地利用其丰富的石油和天然气资源为自己谋利。冷战结束后,巴库转向土耳其,将目光投向西方的欧洲。

重返苏联,阿塞拜疆启动全球海上工业

阿塞拜疆的石油工业拥有许多“第一”,其中最能影响这个国家的未来,更不用说影响全球石油工业本身的未来,就是 1949 年发现 Neft Dashlari(阿塞拜疆语,意为“油岩”)油田。

《 AAPG Explorer》杂志 2022 年 9 月刊的一篇文章指出,在发现时,“无论从储层体积还是可采石油储量来看,Fil Rocks 都被认为是世界上最大的海上油田。”

苏联人设计了特殊的船舶,用于在离岸 100 公里以内的开阔水域进行生产,并在 1947 年至 1949 年间建造了“石油岩城”——世界上第一个坐落在打入海床的木桩上的海上石油平台,并退役了沉没的船只来建造人工岛(这也是该行业的另一项首创)。

据 SOCAR 称,Oil Rocks 仍在生产,满足了阿塞拜疆 70% 的国内石油和天然气需求。历史悠久的 Neft Dashlari 综合体将与一个新的天然气处理平台相连,该平台由 500 公里深的海底油井供气,这是当今Absheron 天然气和凝析气海上项目的一部分,道达尔能源和 SOCAR 各持有 35% 的股份,而 ADNOC 一年前持有 30% 的股份。

苏联首先在 Neft Dashlari 采用了定向钻井技术,随后该技术逐渐推广到里海和西西伯利亚。SOCAR 负责地质、地球物理和油气田开发的副总裁 Khoshbakht Yusifzade 在《阿塞拜疆国际》1996 年夏季刊上写道:“阿库石油工人通过采用以科学为基础的方案,利用注水和其他技术来维持(油藏)压力的人工方法,加速了海上油田的开发进程。”

从某种程度上来说,石油岩的发现并不令人意外,因为从技术角度来说,150年前这里就已经流出了第一批石油,但维持生产(更不用说商业化生产)所需的技术却需要几代人的时间才能成熟。

巴库近海石油开采城。来源:SOCAR。
巴库近海的石油岩城。
来源:SOCAR。

科学家们知道有事发生,只是不知道是什么

1803 年,巴库商人哈吉·卡西姆贝·曼苏尔别科夫 (Haji Kasimbey Mansurbekov) 在 Bibi-Heybat 村附近的海湾中挖出了世界上第一口海上油井,这两口油井分别距离海岸 18 米(59 英尺)和 30 米(98 英尺),从而开采出了石油。1825 年,一场风暴摧毁了这两口油井,这位商人放弃了该项目。

自 1859 年起,科学家开始研究该地区,他们对巴库近海浅滩岩石上覆盖的黑色油膜感到好奇。1896 年,采矿工程师、海上石油开采的早期先驱维托尔德·兹格莱尼茨基 (Witold Zglenitsky) 要求巴库矿业部在比比-海巴特湾填海造地上进行钻探。

然而,矿业部拒绝了兹格莱尼茨基的项目。AAPG Explorer 的文章详细介绍了兹格莱尼茨基的构想,即在海平面以上 4 米处建造一个防水平台,以便在发生井喷时将石油装载到容量为 20 万吨(140 万桶)的驳船上。

1924 年,阿塞拜疆政府启动了一项土地复垦项目,希望能够开发比比湾周围的油田;十年后,采矿工程师 F. 鲁斯塔姆别科夫 (F. Rustambekov) 提出了在六个潜在勘探地点开发阿塞拜疆大陆架的方法。

Prime Exerter 自升式钻井平台位于 Bibi-Heybat 清真寺尖塔的阴影下。
Prime Exerter 自升式钻井平台位于 Bibi-Heybat 清真寺尖塔的阴影下。
来源:David Massie/Dreamstime。

“世纪合同”开启 20 世纪 90 年代里海石油大争夺战

苏联解体使阿塞拜疆摆脱了殖民枷锁,可以自由地利用其石油和天然气财富为自己谋利。

对于后苏联阿塞拜疆来说,最重要的事件是 1994 年 9 月签署的“世纪合同”,这份合同在能源巨头中引发了狂热,他们渴望支付高额的签约奖金来获得产品分成协议 (PSA),以勘探并希望生产当时拍卖的众多区块。

由来自六个国家的 11 家外国石油公司组成的财团与 SOCAR 共同签署了开发阿塞拜疆、奇拉格和深水古纳什利油田 (ACG) 的产量分成合同,这些公司包括:美国、英国、俄罗斯、挪威、土耳其和沙特阿拉伯,以及全球主要石油公司:BP、阿莫科、埃克森美孚、优尼科、挪威国家石油公司和卢克石油公司。

当时签署的其他生产分成合同大部分都失败了,因为勘探人员只碰到了干井,或者发现的储量不足或太复杂而无法宣布为商业储量。

但 ACG 却发展顺利,由 BP 牵头的阿塞拜疆国际作业公司 (AIOC) 开发。2010 年产量达到 835,100 桶/天的峰值,如OTC 25870所述,其中详细介绍了工程师在规划 2015 年项目开发时如何应对该地区特有的地质灾害。

论文作者指出,在合同签署后的第一个十年里,印度石油公司升级了一个现有平台,安装了七个新的固定平台和三个海底井管汇,铺设了约 1200 公里的海底现场和管道至陆上的桑加恰尔出口终端,同时钻探了 160 多口评估井和生产井。

2024 年 4 月,作为运营商的 BP 从其价值 60 亿美元的阿塞拜疆中东 (ACE)设施生产出了第一批石油,标志着拥有近 30 年历史的 ACG 开发项目进入了新阶段。

ACE 具有历史意义,因为它代表了 ACG 自 2014 年启动 West Chirag 平台以来的首次新生产,但最重要的是,ACE 生产设施是第一个由 BP 运营的、由陆上控制的海上平台,在这个例子中,是从 Sangachal 出口终端控制的。

ACG 的石油产量下降,平均日产量从 2022 年的 415,400 桶/天下降到 2023 年的 363,000 桶/天。BP 里海地区通讯和对外事务副总裁 Bakhtiyar Aslanbayli 今年 2 月告诉俄罗斯文传电讯社,SOCAR 正在解决产量下降的问题。

今年 3 月,大西洋理事会全球能源中心非常驻研究员约翰·罗伯茨 (John Roberts) 在接受德国网站Caucasus Watch采访时表示,尽管“BP 旗下 ACG 的产量只有过去的一半”,但天然气出口可以填补“部分空白”,因为“凝析油可以输入输油管道,作为石油出口”。

世界上第一口油井于 1846 年通过机械钻探,利用气举技术开采石油,现保存在 Bibi-Heybat 定居点的露天博物馆中。来源:Nurlan Mammadzada/Dreamstime。
世界上第一口油井于 1846 年通过机械钻探,利用气举方式生产石油,现保存于 Bibi-Heybat 定居点的一座露天博物馆。
来源:Nurlan Mammadzada/Dreamstime。

Shah Deniz、阿布歇隆、天然气和可再生能源——未来的公式

现在我们来谈谈高压沙赫德尼兹凝析气田,这是英国石油公司迄今为止发现的最大的天然气田,该气田根据 1996 年 6 月签署的一份生产分成合同由里海的两个平台运营,该合同目前已延长至 2048 年。

BP 持有 Shah Deniz 油田 29.99% 的经营权益,合作伙伴包括土耳其 TPAO(19.0%)、南部天然气走廊 (SGC)(21.02%)、俄罗斯卢克石油公司 (19.99%) 和伊朗国家石油公司 (NIOC)(10.0%)。

2007年,沙赫德尼兹的阿尔法平台开始输送第一批天然气,从此阿塞拜疆成为了真正的天然气出口国,并有能力通过南高加索管道向格鲁吉亚和土耳其输送天然气。

但 2018 年 Shah Deniz 第二阶段(Bravo 平台)的启动却创造了一系列新纪录,其中包括:里海首次海底开发项目;BP 在全球运营的最大的海底基础设施;以及 3500 公里长的 SGC 管道网络的起点,将里海天然气输送到欧洲。

大西洋理事会的约翰·罗伯茨 (John Roberts) 在三月份的采访中对阿塞拜疆是否能够提高天然气产量以满足 SGC 计划的每年 100 亿立方米的产能表示怀疑,并指出他自己的计算表明“在未来 4 年左右的时间里,阿塞拜疆的天然气供应量不太可能每年增加超过 50 亿立方米。”

阿塞拜疆表示,其有望履行一项协议,即从现在到 2027 年大幅增加对欧盟的出口。

那么如何弥补每年 50 亿立方米的缺口呢?为什么不减少国内消费呢?罗伯茨说,这“迫使我们转向可再生能源”,而阿塞拜疆是否能够利用足够的海上风能(和太阳能)来提供更多天然气用于出口呢?

世界银行估计,到 2040 年,阿塞拜疆可以利用里海风能生产 7 吉瓦的电力,而巴库正在与合作伙伴一起认真应对这一挑战。

  • 沙特上市公司 ACWA Power 和 SOCAR 于 2024 年 4 月同意在绿色氢气生产方面展开合作。ACWA 目前正在阿塞拜疆的阿布歇隆-希兹地区建设一座价值 3.45 亿美元、发电量为 240 兆瓦的风力发电厂。
  • 道达尔能源于 2023 年 6 月签署了一份谅解备忘录,为巴库国家电网开发 500 兆瓦的可再生风能、太阳能和储能系统。
  • BP 预计将在年底前对位于贾布拉伊尔附近、投资 2 亿美元、发电容量为 240 兆瓦的 Shafag 太阳能发电厂做出最终投资决定 (FID)。
  • 2023年,SOCAR与阿联酋清洁能源公司马斯达尔合作,在阿塞拜疆开发三个主要太阳能和风能项目,总容量为1GW。
  • SOCAR 还与马斯达尔和 ACWA Power 达成协议,在阿塞拜疆纳希切万地区开发 500 兆瓦的可再生能源。
  • ACWA 还计划在阿塞拜疆建设一座 1GW 陆上风力发电厂、一座 1.5GW 海上风力发电厂以及各种氢能项目。

那么,碳氢化合物在两个世纪前催生现代石油和天然气工业的“火之国”中是否已经度过了辉煌?答案是否定的。

虽然 Equinor 可能正在出售其在阿塞拜疆的资产,但主办 COP28 并已将权力移交给阿塞拜疆的阿联酋已收购了阿布歇隆天然气和凝析油田 30% 的股份。匈牙利国有能源集团 MVM 正在收购 Shah Deniz 天然气田 5% 的股份,此前该公司已于 2020 年收购了雪佛龙在 BP ACG 石油项目和 BTC(巴库-第比利斯-杰伊汉)出口管道中的股份。

据阿塞拜疆趋势通讯社报道,SOCAR、道达尔能源和阿布歇隆国家石油公司将在 2024 年底或 2025 年初决定对阿布歇隆天然气项目第二阶段做出最终投资决定,该项目将使天然气年产量提高到 55 亿立方米,并出口到欧洲。

阿布歇隆一期于 2023 年 9 月投入生产,年产量为 15 亿立方米,目前在阿塞拜疆国内市场上销售。

进一步阅读

《阿塞拜疆石油和巴库的关键作用》, 作者:J. Bahramov 和 H. Hasanov,AA Bakikhanov 历史研究所。

巴库:暴力、身份和石油,1905 - 1927, 作者:Jonathan H. Sicotte。学位论文。

荷兰皇家壳牌:简史,特鲁德·梅兰 (Trude Meland) 著, 挪威石油博物馆藏。

罗斯柴尔德家族的阿塞拜疆石油历史。

罗斯柴尔德档案馆的网站。

OTC 25870 ACG 现场地质灾害管理:揭开过去,保障未来, 作者:AW Hill 和 GA Wood,BP America 等。

SPE 177400 理解复杂覆盖层以便在阿塞拜疆近海巨型 Shah Deniz 凝析气田安全产出油井, 作者:GR Price、D. Hall 和 K. Kaiser 等人,BP 勘探(里海)有限公司

SPE 219287 南里海盆地阿布歇隆岩床的断层模式和结构配置,从高质量 OBN 地震中获得的新见解, 作者:X. Dengyi、L. Rouis 和 L. Xiaoliang 等人

在苏联解体的废墟中发现丢失的历史

那是 1992 年的美国感恩节,苏联解体不到一年。威廉·考特尼作为美国首任大使抵达新独立国家哈萨克斯坦。

他决定举办感恩节晚宴,并邀请阿拉木图的整个美国社区——我们总共 20 个人——或者我们人数更少?我们所有人都围坐在一张相当大的椭圆形桌子旁,当时那是哈萨克斯坦最好的酒店——共产党酒店。

新来的厨师是来自圣安东尼奥的德克萨斯人,他竭尽全力将当地市场上的鸡肉和一种被认为是蔓越莓的红莓酱做成了适合朝圣者的美食。毕竟,我们就是这样的朝圣者,长途跋涉来到某个神圣的地方。

谈话十分引人入胜——记者、企业家、外交官、冒险家,都是冷战时期的孩子,都在展望未来。

戈布斯坦附近的泥火山冒泡,岩画证实早在 8000 年前人类就在这里居住。来源:Dreamstime。
戈布斯坦附近冒泡的泥火山,其岩画证实早在 8,000 年前人类就在这里居住。
来源:Dreamstime。

我以记者和企业家的身份来到这个城市,希望代表一个所谓的投资者(没有钱)推出一项商业新闻服务,这个投资者从乌克兰基辅招募了三名容易上当的自由记者,包括我在内。

在报道了乌克兰独立公投、涉过第聂伯河、绕过切尔诺贝利入口处的路障并住在基辅市中心卡尔马克思街的一间公共公寓后,哈萨克斯坦听起来充满了异国情调,甚至有点令人恐惧。

回想 1992 年在阿拉木图举行的感恩节晚餐。

考特尼大使和美国驻华代表团副团长杰克逊·麦克唐纳曾就苏联解体后全球政治格局可能如何重新调整进行了探讨,其中有一句话直到 30 年后的今天仍让我印象深刻——他们告诉我们,要注意里海和中亚国家可能转向的方向。

他们是对的,当哈萨克斯坦向俄罗斯、中国和西方等多个方向转变以平衡这三个庞然大物时,阿塞拜疆却转向土耳其,从文化和语言上来说这是一种天作之合,这使得巴库成为欧洲石油和天然气的供应国。

1994 年,我第一次前往巴库,不仅闻到了空气中的原油味道,当出租车(一直是没有计价器的苏联菲亚特式拉达)从机场驶过 Bibi-Heybat 油田时,我还能尝到原油的味道,一幅月球表面的景象和生锈的抽油机正在抽油,映入眼帘。

右边是一些红瓦屋顶的房子,看上去就像欧洲或北美郊区的房屋——考虑到其他地方常见的苏联灰色砌块建筑,这真是一副奇怪的景象。

尽管这可能只是都市传说,但司机解释说,这些房子是为俄国革命前开采这些油田的外国经理建造的。

当我们接近巴库郊区时,前方是建于 17 和 18 世纪的 Ateshgah 火神庙,供印度教、锡克教和琐罗亚斯德教信徒崇拜。他们的火神的秘密是:天然气。20 世纪 60 年代,天然气停止渗漏后,苏联人通过管道将天然气引入,保留火神庙对旅游业仍然大有裨益。

我是一群敬业的能源记者之一,我们在里海展览巡回期间访问了巴库,该展览巡回包括哈萨克斯坦、土库曼斯坦和乌兹别克斯坦,当时阿塞拜疆总统盖达尔·阿利耶夫在巴库举行的首届大型石油和天然气展览会上与国际合作伙伴宣布了“世纪合同”。

阿塞拜疆国家石油公司 SOCAR 与来自六个国家的 11 家外国石油公司组成的财团签署了生产分成合同,旨在开发里海阿塞拜疆海域的阿塞拜疆油田、奇拉格油田和深水古纳什利油田 (ACG)。

Bibi-Heybat 油田自 19 世纪开始工业化生产,但几个世纪以来一直以手工方式开采。资料来源:Dreamstime。
比比-黑巴特油田自 19 世纪开始工业化生产,但几个世纪以来一直以手工开采为主。
来源:Dreamstime。

在历史的边缘,我们确实玩得很开心

尽管今天的 HSE 经理们一想到这个就会晕倒,但我们曾经与一位苏联直升机飞行员谈过,让他带我们飞越里海,飞越 ACG 项目区的生产平台。

这架生锈的直升机急需重新上漆,我们紧紧系好安全带,但当机组人员打开侧门,飞行员在绕着平台飞行时倾斜身体,让我们看得更清楚时,这架直升机却奇迹般地停在了空中。有一件事让我们很失望:我们没有得到降落许可——不知道为什么?

在巴库,新建的凯悦酒店是唯一一家符合大多数人口味的“豪华”酒店,但只有《华尔街日报》或美国有线电视新闻网 (CNN) 能负担得起,而我们这些贸易媒体从业者往往是没有旅行预算的自由职业者。

我住在阿布歇隆苏联灾区 14 楼,俯瞰独立广场,四年前这里曾发生过骚乱和屠杀。

阿布歇隆酒店有一个秘密。在后苏联时代,所有东西的所有权都随处可见,阿布歇隆酒店的员工们将酒店的各个楼层划分为不同的区域,就像私人领地一样。

创建 14 楼利润中心的人知道如何以微薄的预算取悦外国人。他整理了房间,刷了油漆,最重要的是更换了烧坏的灯泡。他买了新窗帘,并聘请了一位会说英语的接待员(也就是收银员),他只接受硬通货,而且只接受现金。

至于娱乐,谁需要导游呢?让任何有进取心的司机开着一辆破旧的拉达汽车出去赚点钱,你就能花上一下午的时间参观达什吉尔泥火山,欣赏附近戈布斯坦的旧石器时代岩画。

Yanar Dag 在阿塞拜疆语中意为“转动的山”。资料来源:Dreamstime。
Yanar Dag 在阿塞拜疆语中意为“转动的山”。
来源:Dreamstime。

注意:有一次我的脚(和腿)滑进了一座泥火山,幸好我的出租车在我身体受困之前就采取了行动。关于阿塞拜疆泥火山内部运作的更科学的探索可以在这里找到。

最后,我们不要忘记长达 10 米的 Yanar Dag 火墙,几十年来,它一直因巴库郊外的甲烷渗漏而喷涌而出。另一位富有进取心的企业家在离火焰很远的地方开了一家咖啡馆,现代的拜火教徒们一边喝茶,一边欣赏甲烷喷涌的自然奇观。

当国际嘉宾齐聚巴库,参加 COP29 会议,规划下一次工业革命时,世界将完全不同。30 年前,阿塞拜疆像凤凰一样从苏联解体的废墟中重生。这将会很有趣,但会平淡得多。

进一步阅读

OTC 15120 阿塞拜疆近海南里海盆地泥火山的地震解释和分类, 作者:德克萨斯 A&M 大学的 MZ Yusiifov、PD Rabinowitz。

原文链接/JPT
Business/economics

Azerbaijan—The Land of Unquenchable Fire

As Azerbaijan prepares to host COP29, JPT looks back at how the country prospered for millennia on its largess of oil and gas and its unique geography along the ancient Silk Road that today is traversed by pipelines delivering gas and oil to Europe from the depths of the Caspian Sea.

Cisterns reflect off crude oil and waste products captured in a pit adjacent to production wells in the Balakhani oil field in Baku, 1900–1917.
Cisterns reflect off crude oil and waste products captured in a pit adjacent to production wells in the Balakhani oil field in Baku, 1900–1917.
Source: Swedish National Museum of Science and Technology.

For millennia, Zoroastrian fire worshippers traveled on pilgrimage to pray at temples built where methane seeping from deep underground caused flames to burst from the earth on the Absheron Peninsula near Baku, the capital of today’s Azerbaijan.

The Venetian merchant Marco Polo observed such mysterious fires and puddles of oil that bubbled or even gushed as fountains to the surface as he trekked along the Silk Road through the Caucasus Mountains in the 13th century.

In a travelogue written in 1298, The Travels of Marco Polo, he is said to have described: “Near the Georgian border there is a spring from which gushes a stream of oil in such abundance that a hundred ships may load here at once. This oil is not good to eat, but it is good for burning and as a salve for men and camels affected with itch or scab.”

He was referring to the Khanates of Azerbaijan, a part of the Persian Empire in Marco Polo’s time but absorbed in 1806 into the Russian Empire whose czars took an interest in financing early oil production—hand dug and exported on camel back. Its high paraffin content was valued for producing kerosene lamp oil and lubricants including cannon grease.

In November, COP29 delegates will gather in the shadow of Baku’s 21st century Flame Towers, symbols of the eternal fires fed by seeping hydrocarbons that have shaped the fortunes of Azerbaijan for centuries.
In November, COP29 delegates will gather in the shadow of Baku’s 21st century Flame Towers, symbols of the eternal fires fed by seeping hydrocarbons that have shaped the fortunes of Azerbaijan for centuries.
Source: Vadim Nefedov/Dreamstime.

World’s First Mechanically Drilled Oil Well

As the Industrial Revolution swept from West to East in the mid-19th century, many of the innovations and business systems around which the modern oil and gas industry were soon to coalesce were tested in the ancient “Land of Fire.”

Czar Nicholas I (1825–1855) financed the world’s first mechanically drilled oil well in 1846 using a cable-tool percussion drilling method. A 21-m-deep (69 ft) exploration well was the result.

This happened a decade before Edwin Drake added steam-engine power to a mechanical drill to put Titusville, Pennsylvania, on the map in 1859, as described in the Branobel History archives.

By 1871, with Nicholas’ son, the reformer Alexander II now on the Russian throne, boreholes had replaced buckets across the Bibi-Heybat and Balakhani oil fields.

The arrival from Sweden in the 1870s of Alfred Nobel’s brothers, Ludvig and Robert, brought a step change to Azerbaijan in terms of industrial innovation, construction, and logistics such that by 1900 Azerbaijan was producing 50% of the world’s oil, historical sources agree.

Alexander II had abolished the state monopoly on oil production in 1869, opening the door to foreign industrialists and their capital.

Robert Nobel obliged and opened the joint stock Branobel Co. in 1878 with a partner from a weapons plant in the Russian town of Izhevsk. He put down share capital of 3 million rubles ($30,000 in today’s money) to register Tovarishestvo Neftyanogo Proizvodstva Bratyev Nobel—in English, The Brothers Nobel Paraffin Production Company (aka Branobel).

The transformation of Baku’s oil fields into a capitalist production sector had begun in 1872 with the auction of 15 blocks in the Balakhani oil field and two blocks in Bibi-Heybat, according to a history prepared by Azerbaijan’s Ministry of Energy in 2020.

This drove a 340% growth in oil production between 1876 and 1882, from 24,000 to 816,000 tons, respectively, between those years. By 1894 Azerbaijan’s production equaled that of the US (5.55 million tons per year) though Baku’s fields were 20 times less productive, according to Branobel archivists.

Other Branobel firsts as recounted in the company archive include:

  • The world’s first oil tanker, the steel-hulled Zoroaster, commissioned in 1877 transported Baku’s oil to European and Asian markets via the Baltic Sea and the Russian river system.
  • First railway transport with tank wagons to deliver oil across the Russian Empire.
  • First attempts to produce Caspian oil offshore.
  • First diesel-powered ships. Russia’s Vandal and Sarmat river barges delivered oil and oil products from Azerbaijan to the empire’s domestic market.
Oilfield workers drilling and completing wells in Baku before the Russian Revolution.
Oilfield workers drilling and completing wells in Baku before the Russian Revolution.
Source: Romanovempire.org.

How Mr. Diesel Commercialized His Engine Using Baku’s Heavy Oil

As the story goes, a Swedish employee of the Nobel Company in Russia had seen an early version of Rudolf Diesel’s invention at an annual meeting of German engineers in the late 1890s. Back home in St. Petersburg, the employee, Anton Carlsund, suggested that Emanuel Nobel acquire the patent. Nobel ran Branobel after his father Ludvig Nobel died in 1888.

German experts had contested Diesel’s patent, asking if engines could be run at the high pressure envisioned. As Nobel and Diesel negotiated, a suggestion was made to experiment with heavy oils—likely made by Nobel when he realized the implications for his St. Petersburg factory and the heavy oil produced in Baku.

Quoting from the Branobel archive: “On February 16, 1898, Emanuel Nobel signed the contract with Diesel, paying 800,000 Marks. “The cool Swede is now more on fire than me for my engine,” Rudolf Diesel wrote to his wife. Of the 800,000 Marks, 600,000 was paid in cash and 200,000 Marks for shares in the newly established Russische Dieselmotor Co., Nürnberg.

This first engine was a 20-hp vertical engine with an A-shaped stand and with a crosshead connection to the connection rod and crank shaft. The machine was tested officially at the Technical Institute in St. Petersburg.

During this period of heavy industrialization, the Nobel brothers were hardly alone. The Rothschild’s Banking House in Paris had registered the Caspian Black Sea Co. in 1883 focused mainly on exporting Azerbaijan’s oil and oil products. The family’s banking structures loaned money to build the Transcaucasus Railway linking Baku with the Georgian Black Sea port of Batumi in 1883. They also financed construction of oil tank wagons.

As a result, the Rothschilds became the leading exporter of Russian kerosene by the end of the 1880s, Mir-Yusif Mir-Babayev, a professor at Azerbaijan Technical University in Baku, wrote in the spring 2018 edition of Visions of Azerbaijan magazine.

Their petroleum concession in Baku was so large that it quickly became the chief competitor of John D. Rockefeller’s company, Standard Oil, before they sold out their oil interests in 1912, according to the Rothschild family archive.

The nascent Royal Dutch Shell and Shell Transport and Trading companies cooperated with the Rothschilds and Nobels to further expand Russian crude and kerosene exports from the Absheron Peninsula, particularly to Asia, and further cut into Standard Oil’s monopoly.

Street scene along Neftchilar (petroleum worker) Avenue, 1918-1920. Source: Public domain/Ariel Varges.
Street scene along Neftchilar (petroleum worker) Avenue, 1918-1920.
Source: Public domain/Ariel Varges.

World War, Civil War, Revolution, and Lenin’s NEP

The growth Azerbaijan’s oil industry experienced in the 19th century, war and ideology destroyed in the early 20th. Between the disruptions of World War I, the Russian Revolution, and civil war across the empire, Azerbaijan’s contribution to world production had by 1920 fallen to 15% while during the same period, US production was in first place globally.

The nascent Soviet Union needed help and so as Lenin unveiled his New Economic Policy (NEP), the virtues of profit were written into the Marxist vernacular and oil concessions were offered to foreign companies to draw investment, foreign workers, and the latest technologies to Baku.

One deal the Soviets struck in 1923 was with the International Barnsdall Corp., a US-based engineering firm, which brought “dozens of American engineers and technicians” to Baku while “introducing new technologies such as rotary drills necessary for the drilling of larger and deeper wells,” Jonathan H. Sicotte wrote in his dissertation.

A review of academic research on the NEP era concludes that the Barnsdall deal was less of a concession and more of a foreshadowing of Soviet trade practices to barter oil for western technology and training while retaining control of the assets. Royal Dutch Shell, whose assets in Baku had been nationalized, and Sinclair Oil negotiated for what would have been true oil concessions and near monopoly control of production. The Soviets said “no.”

Eventually Stalin would take the “go it alone” approach to building the USSR’s oil and gas industry in isolation. And so it went until the Soviet Union itself collapsed at the end of 1991.

Azerbaijan had declared its independence 4 months earlier in August 1991 after the failed coup in Moscow. It then endured its own political chaos, social upheaval, and a war with Armenia until Heydar Aliyev, a veteran of the KGB and the Soviet Politburo, took control in 1993 in a military coup of Azerbaijan’s own.

After centuries of having served the interests of three empires in succession—Persian, Russian, and Soviet—Azerbaijan was finally free to leverage its oil and gas largesse to its own benefit. As the Cold War ended, Baku pivoted to Turkey and set its sights west to Europe.

Back in the USSR, Azerbaijan Launches the Global Offshore Industry

Among the many firsts that Azerbaijan’s oil industry can claim, the one that most shaped the country’s future, not to mention the future of the global oil industry itself, was the discovery in 1949 of the Neft Dashlari (Azerbaijani for Oil Rocks) oil field.

An article in the September 2022 issue of the AAPG Explorer noted that at the time of its discovery, “Oil Rocks was considered the world’s largest offshore oil field, both in terms of reservoir volume and recoverable oil reserves.”

The Soviets designed special marine vessels to produce in open water up to 100 km offshore and built over the years from 1947 to 1949 Oil Rocks City—the world’s first offshore oil platform seated on wooden piles driven into the seabed, and decommissioned ships that were sunk to create artificial islands (another first in the industry).

Still producing, Oil Rocks supplies 70% of Azerbaijan’s domestic oil and gas demand, according to SOCAR. The historic Neft Dashlari complex is being joined to a new gas-processing platform fed by a subsea well in 500-km-deep water as part of today’s Absheron gas and gas condensate offshore project in which TotalEnergies and SOCAR each hold 35% stakes after ADNOC’s 30% farm-in a year ago.

The Soviet Union employed directional drilling at Neft Dashlari first before its use spread throughout the Caspian and to west Siberia. “Baku oilmen accelerated the process of development of the offshore fields by applying scientifically based schemes of artificial methods of maintaining (reservoir) pressure by flooding and other techniques,” SOCAR’s Vice President for Geology, Geophysics and Oil and Gas Field Development, Khoshbakht Yusifzade, wrote in Azerbaijan International’s Summer 1996 issue.

In a way, the Oil Rocks discovery wasn’t a surprise considering that first oil had technically flowed there 150 years earlier, but the technology needed to sustain production, let alone commercialize it, would take several generations to mature.

Oil Rocks City offshore Baku. Source: SOCAR.
Oil Rocks City offshore Baku.
Source: SOCAR.

Scientists Knew Something Was Happening, They Just Didn’t Know What

In 1803, a Baku merchant, Haji Kasimbey Mansurbekov, produced oil from what is said to have been the world’s first offshore wells—two wells dug 18 m (59 ft) and 30 m (98 ft) from the coast in the bay off Bibi-Heybat village. In 1825 a storm destroyed the wells, and the merchant abandoned the project.

As of 1859, scientists had begun to study the area, curious about the black oily film that covered rocks in the shallows offshore Baku. In 1896 mining engineer and early pioneer in offshore oil production, Witold Zglenitsky, asked the Baku Mining Department to drill on land reclaimed in Bibi-Heybat Bay.

The Mining Department refused Zglenitsky’s project, however. His concept envisioned building a waterproof platform 4 m above sea level to enable oil to load into 200,000-ton (1.4 million‑bbl)-capacity barges in case of a gusher, the AAPG Explorer article detailed.

A land reclamation project followed in 1924 in hope of producing the field around Bibi‑Heybat Bay, and a decade later, mining engineer F. Rustambekov proposed methods to develop the Azerbaijan shelf at six potential exploration sites.

The Prime Exerter jackup drilling rig in the shadow of the minarets of the Bibi-Heybat Mosque.
The Prime Exerter jackup drilling rig in the shadow of the minarets of the Bibi-Heybat Mosque.
Source: David Massie/Dreamstime.

The “Contract of the Century” Kicks Off the Great Caspian Oil Sweepstakes of the 1990s

The dissolution of the USSR freed Azerbaijan of its colonial chains, giving it free reign to leverage its oil and gas wealth to its own benefit.

The most consequential event for post-Soviet Azerbaijan was the signing in September 1994 of the “Contract of the Century” which brought on a feeding frenzy among energy majors eager to pay hefty signing bonuses to obtain production sharing agreements (PSAs) to explore and hopefully produce any of a host of blocks that were put on auction at the time.

A consortium of 11 foreign oil companies from six countries together with SOCAR signed the PSA to develop the Azeri, Chirag, and Deepwater Gunashli oil fields (ACG): the US, UK, Russia, Norway, Turkey, and Saudi Arabia, plus a “who’s who” of global majors: BP, Amoco, Exxon, Unocal, Statoil, and Lukoil.

Most of the other PSAs signed at this time failed as exploration drillers hit only dry holes or identified reserves that were insufficient or too complex to be declared commercial.

But ACG prospered, developed by the BP-led Azerbaijan International Operating Company (AIOC). Production peaked at 835,100 B/D in 2010, as described in OTC 25870 which details how engineers addressed geohazards unique to the area while planning the project’s development through 2015.

In the first decade after contract signing, AIOC upgraded an existing platform, installed seven new fixed platforms and three subsea well manifolds, laid approximately 1200 km of subsea in-field and pipelines to the Sangachal export terminal onshore, while drilling more than 160 appraisal and production wells, the paper’s authors noted.

In April 2024, BP as operator, produced first oil from its $6-billion Azeri Central East (ACE) facility as the nearly 30-year-old ACG development entered a new phase.

ACE is historic in that it represents ACG’s first new production since the 2014 startup of the West Chirag platform, but most significantly, the ACE production facility is the first BP-operated offshore platform controlled from onshore, in this case, from the Sangachal export terminal.

Oil production is down at ACG with average daily oil production having fallen to 363,000 B/D in 2023 from 415,400 in 2022. Bakhtiyar Aslanbayli, BP vice president for the Caspian region, communications and external affairs, told Russia’s Interfax news service in February that SOCAR is addressing the decline issue.

In an interview in March with the German website Caucasus Watch, John Roberts, a nonresident fellow at the Atlantic Council’s Global Energy Center, suggested that while “the output of BP’s ACG is half of what it used to be,” gas exports could fill “some of this vacuum” because “condensate can be fed into oil pipelines to export as oil.”

The world’s first oil well, drilled mechanically in 1846 to produce oil under gas lift, is preserved at an open air museum in the Bibi-Heybat settlement. Source: Nurlan Mammadzada/Dreamstime.
The world’s first oil well, drilled mechanically in 1846 to produce oil under gas lift, is preserved at an open air museum in the Bibi-Heybat settlement.
Source: Nurlan Mammadzada/Dreamstime.

Shah Deniz, Absheron, Gas, and Renewables—Formula for the Future

We turn now to the high-pressure Shah Deniz gas condensate field, BP’s largest-ever gas find, operated from two platforms in the Caspian Sea under a PSA signed in June 1996 that has since been extended to 2048.

BP holds an operating interest of 29.99% in Shah Deniz with partners including Turkey’s TPAO (19.0%), the Southern Gas Corridor (SGC) (21.02%), Russia’s LUKOIL (19.99%), and the National Iranian Oil Company (NIOC) (10.0%).

The start of first gas from Shah Deniz’s Alpha platform in 2007 put Azerbaijan literally on the map as a gas exporter, with a capability to deliver gas to Georgia and Turkey via the South Caucasus Pipeline.

But the startup of Shah Deniz Phase 2 (Bravo platform) in 2018 topped up a whole new list of superlatives including: first subsea development in the Caspian Sea; largest subsea infrastructure operated by BP worldwide; and the point from which the 3500-km SGC pipeline network begins its journey to deliver Caspian gas to Europe.

In his interview in March, the Atlantic Council’s John Roberts raised doubts as to whether Azerbaijan could boost gas production enough to fill the SGC’s planned 10 Bcm per year capacity, noting that his own calculations suggest “we are not likely to see more than 5 Bcm per year added to Azerbaijani supply over the next 4 years or so.”

Azerbaijan says it is on track to fulfil an agreement to significantly boost its exports to the EU between now and 2027.

So how to plug that 5 Bcm per year gap? Why not reduce domestic consumption which, Roberts said, “brings us to renewables” and the question of whether Azerbaijan can tap into enough offshore wind power (and solar) to make more natural gas available for export.

The World Bank estimates that Azerbaijan could be producing 7 GW of power from Caspian Sea winds by 2040, and Baku is lining up partners to take the challenge seriously.

  • Saudi-listed ACWA Power and SOCAR agreed in April 2024 to partner on green hydrogen production. ACWA is currently building a $345-million, 240-MW wind power plant in Azerbaijan’s Absheron-Khizi regions.
  • TotalEnergies signed a Memorandum of Understanding in June 2023 to develop 500 MW of renewable wind, solar energies, and energy storage systems for Baku’s national grid.
  • BP expects a final investment decision (FID) by year-end on the $200-million, 240-MW Shafag solar power plant situated near Jabrayil.
  • In 2023, SOCAR partnered with Masdar, the UAE’s clean energy company, to develop three major solar and wind projects in Azerbaijan with a combined capacity of 1GW.
  • SOCAR also agreed with Masdar and ACWA Power to develop 500 MW of renewable energy in the Nakhchivan region of Azerbaijan.
  • ACWA is also eyeing construction of a 1-GW onshore wind power plant, a 1.5-GW offshore wind power plant, and various hydrogen projects in Azerbaijan.

So, have hydrocarbons had their day in the “Land of Fire” which conceived the modern oil and gas industry 2 centuries ago? Hardly.

While Equinor may be selling its Azerbaijani assets, the UAE, which hosted COP28 and now passes the gavel to Azerbaijan, has picked up a 30% stake in the Absheron gas and condensate field. Hungary’s state-owned energy conglomerate MVM is buying a 5% stake in Shah Deniz gas, building on its 2020 purchases of Chevron’s stakes in BP’s ACG oil project and the BTC (Baku-Tbilisi-Ceyhan) export pipeline.

Azerbaijan’s Trend news agency reports that SOCAR, TotalEnergies, and ADNOC will decide by year-end 2024 or early 2025 on declaring FID on Phase 2 of the Absheron gas project, which would raise production to 5.5 Bcm per year for export to Europe.

Absheron Phase 1 went onstream in September 2023 with 1.5 Bcm per year that is currently sold on Azerbaijan’s domestic market.

For Further Reading

The Pivotal Role of Azerbaijan Oil and Baku by J. Bahramov and H. Hasanov, A.A. Bakikhanov History Institute.

Baku: Violence, Identity and Oil, 1905–1927 by Jonathan H. Sicotte. Dissertation.

Royal Dutch Shell: A Brief History by Trude Meland, Norwegian Petroleum Museum.

The Rothschild Pages of Azerbaijan’s Oil History.

The Rothschild Archive’s Website.

OTC 25870 ACG Field Geohazards Management: Unwinding the Past, Securing the Future by A.W. Hill and G.A. Wood, BP America, et al.

SPE 177400 Understanding a Complex Overburden To Deliver Safe and Productive Wells at the Giant Shah Deniz Gas-Condensate Field, Offshore Azerbaijan by G.R. Price, D. Hall, and K. Kaiser, et al., BP Exploration (Caspian Sea) Ltd.

SPE 219287 Fault Pattern and Structure Configuration of Absheron Sill, South Caspian Basin, New Insight From High-Quality OBN Seismic by X. Dengyi, L. Rouis, and L. Xiaoliang, et al.

Discovering Lost History in the Ashes of the Soviet Collapse

It was American Thanksgiving 1992 and less than a year after the dissolution of the Soviet Union. William Courtney had arrived as the first US Ambassador to the newly independent state of Kazakhstan.

He decided to host Thanksgiving dinner and invite the entire American community in Almaty—all 20 of us—or were we fewer? Let’s just say we all fitted around one rather large oval table at what was then the best hotel in Kazakhstan—the communist party hotel.

The new chef was a Texan from San Antonio, and he did his best to transform chickens from the local market and a sort of red berry sauce that passed for cranberry into a meal fit for pilgrims. Afterall, that’s what we were, pilgrims who had journeyed long distances to some sacred place.

The conversation was riveting—journalists, entrepreneurs, diplomats, adventurers, all children of the Cold War crystal balling the future.

Bubbling mud volcanos near Gobustan where petroglyphs confirm human inhabitation as far back as 8,000 years. Source: Dreamstime.
Bubbling mud volcanos near Gobustan where petroglyphs confirm human inhabitation as far back as 8,000 years.
Source: Dreamstime.

I was in town as both journalist and entrepreneur hoping to launch a business news service on behalf of a so-called investor (with no money) who had recruited three gullible freelance journalists—including myself—from Kiev in Ukraine.

After covering Ukraine’s independence vote, wading in the Dnieper River, skirting the roadblock at the entrance to Chernobyl while living in a communal apartment on Karl Marx Street in downtown Kiev, Kazakhstan sounded exotic if not foreboding.

But back to Thanksgiving dinner 1992 in Almaty.

Ambassador Courtney and US Deputy Chief of Mission Jackson McDonald bantered about how global politics might be reordered in the wake of the Soviet collapse and one comment has stuck with me to this day some 30 years later—pay attention, they told us, to where the Caspian and Central Asian states might pivot.

They were right, and while Kazakhstan pivoted in multiple directions—Russia, China and the West—to balance those three behemoths; Azerbaijan turned to Turkey, a natural fit culturally and linguistically, that has positioned Baku as a supplier of oil and gas to Europe.

On my first trip to Baku in 1994 I didn’t just smell the crude oil in the air, I could taste it as the taxi (always a Soviet Fiat-style Lada with no meter) sped through the Bibi-Heybat oil fields enroute from the airport and a moonscape with rusty pump jacks pumping came into focus.

To the right, were red tiled roofs of what looked like houses in a suburban subdivision you might find in Europe or North America—an odd sight considering the usual Soviet grey block architecture everywhere else.

Though it might have been an urban myth, the driver explained that the houses had been built for foreign managers who produced the fields before the Russian Revolution.

Ahead as we approached the outskirts of Baku was the Ateshgah fire temple built in the 17th and 18th Centuries for Hindu, Sikh, and Zoroastrian worship. The secret of their god of fire: natural gas which the Soviets piped in after natural seeps stopped flowing in the 1960s—having a fire temple was still good for tourism.

I was one of a dedicated group of energy journalists who visited Baku while on the Caspian exhibition circuit which included Kazakhstan, Turkmenistan, and Uzbekistan around the time that Azerbaijan’s President Heydar Aliyev announced “The Contract of the Century” with a literal “Who’s Who” of international partners at that first major oil and gas exhibition in Baku.

The PSA between Azerbaijan’s state oil company SOCAR and a consortium of 11 foreign oil companies from six countries aimed to develop the Azeri, Chirag, and Deepwater Gunashli oil fields (ACG) in Azerbaijan’s sector of the Caspian Sea.

The Bibi-Heybat oilfields produced industrially since the 1800s but mined by hand for centuries. Source: Dreamstime.
The Bibi-Heybat oilfields produced industrially since the 1800s but mined by hand for centuries.
Source: Dreamstime.

On the Sidelines of History, We Did Have Our Fun

While today’s HSE managers would faint at the thought, we once talked a Soviet helicopter pilot to take us out over the Caspian to buzz the production platform at the ACG project area.

The rusty chopper in desperate need of a new paint job stayed airborne miraculously as we strained against our seatbelts when a crew member threw open the side door and the pilot banked to give us a clear view as he circled the platform. One disappointment: we failed to get permission to land—I wonder why?

In Baku the newly built Hyatt was the only “real” hotel in terms of most tastes but only The Wall Street Journal or CNN could afford it and those of us with the trade media were often freelancers without a travel budget.

I stayed on the 14th floor of the Absheron—a Soviet disaster area overlooking Independence Square where riots and a massacre had occurred 4 years earlier.

The Absheron had a secret. With ownership of everything up for grabs everywhere in the post-Soviet world, the Absheron had been divided between its employees who controlled individual floors like private fiefdoms.

The fellow who created the profit center on the 14th floor knew how to please foreigners on meager budgets. He tidied things up, did some painting and most importantly replaced the burned-out light bulbs. He bought new curtains and hired an English-speaking receptionist, aka the cashier, who took only hard currency and only in cash.

As for recreation, who needed a tour guide? Ask any enterprising driver out to make a few bucks with a dilapidated Lada and you would be whisked around for an afternoon to visit the Dashgil mud volcanos and marvel at Paleolithic petroglyphs at nearby Gobustan.

Yanar Dag which is Azerbaijani for “Burning Mountain.” Source: Dreamstime.
Yanar Dag which is Azerbaijani for “Burning Mountain.”
Source: Dreamstime.

Note: My foot (and leg with it) slipped into one of those mud volcanos once and thankfully my cab hire acted before the rest of me followed. A more scientific exploration of the inner workings of Azerbaijan’s mud volcanos can be found here.

Finally, let’s not forget the Yanar Dag 10-meter-long wall of fire that has been erupting from methane seeps for decades outside of Baku. Another enterprising entrepreneur opened a café a safe distance across from the flames where modern day fire worshipers sip tea while contemplating the methane emitting natural wonder.

It will be a different world when international guests gather in Baku for COP29 to plan the next industrial revolution 30 years after Azerbaijan rose like a phoenix from the ashes of the Soviet collapse. There will be fun but it will be far tamer.

For Further Reading

OTC 15120 Seismic Interpretation and Classification of Mud Volcanoes of the South Caspian Basin, Offshore Azerbaijan by M.Z. Yusiifov, P.D. Rabinowitz, Texas A&M University.